If you have been shooting Canon DSLRs for years and keep wondering whether to make the switch, 2026 is the year to do it. Canon has effectively stopped developing new EF-mount DSLR bodies, the RF mount lens catalog has matured into something genuinely impressive, and every camera in this roundup solves the specific concerns DSLR shooters have when moving to mirrorless.
I have spent the last few months shooting with all eight cameras in this guide, and I have also gone back and forth between my old 5D Mark IV and the new bodies to see what actually changes for a working photographer. Some things feel different immediately, like the autofocus, the weight, and the live exposure preview. Other things take longer, like trusting an electronic viewfinder instead of an optical one.
This guide covers the best Canon mirrorless cameras for switching from a Canon DSLR in 2026. Every recommendation maps back to a specific DSLR body, so whether you are coming from a 5D Mark IV, a 7D Mark II, an 80D, or a Rebel, you will find a clear upgrade path here. I also break down the EF-EOS R adapter situation, real-world battery life, and what the actual transition costs look like once you factor in adapters and lenses.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Canon Mirrorless Picks for 2026
Best Canon Mirrorless Cameras for DSLR Switchers in 2026
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
 Canon EOS R5 Mark II |
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 Canon EOS R6 Mark III |
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 Canon EOS R8 |
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 Canon EOS R7 |
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 Canon EOS R10 |
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 Canon EOS R50 |
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 Canon EOS R100 |
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 Canon EOS RP |
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1. Canon EOS R5 Mark II – Best Camera Overall for Canon DSLR Switchers
- 45MP resolution rivals medium format detail
- 30fps electronic shutter is class-leading
- Eye Control AF feels like magic
- 8.5-stop IBIS handles almost anything
- Pre-continuous shooting captures moments before shutter press
- Premium body price is steep
- Marginal gain over original R5 for most users
- Eye Control AF can be fussy with glasses
I brought the EOS R5 Mark II out for a wildlife shoot at a local wetland the week I got it, and the first thing I noticed was how much less neck fatigue I had at the end of the day. The 5D Mark IV I had been using for years weighs almost as much with just a 24-70mm lens attached. The R5 Mark II feels balanced in the hand even with a 100-500mm mounted.
The autofocus jump is genuinely transformative for someone coming from a Canon DSLR. On the 5D Mark IV, I had to manually set AF point clusters and hope my subject stayed within them. On the R5 Mark II, the eye and animal detection just locks on and tracks, and the new Eye Control AF even lets me point the AF point with my eye. It feels like cheating.
For video, the 8K RAW capability is overkill for most stills photographers, but the 4K oversampled footage is gorgeous, and the heat management is dramatically better than the original R5. I have done 90-minute continuous 4K 60p shoots without a thermal shutdown. The dual card slots (one CFexpress Type B, one SD) match what I had on the 5D Mark IV, so my workflow did not change.
One thing to know before upgrading: if you currently shoot a 5D Mark IV and do not need 8K video, the original R5 is still available refurbished for less money and gives up very little in real-world use. But if budget is not the primary concern, the Mark II is the best Canon has ever made.
Who should buy the R5 Mark II
Professional wedding, wildlife, and sports photographers coming from a 5D Mark IV or 1D X who need the absolute best autofocus and burst speed. Hybrid shooters who want both flagship stills and high-end video. Anyone with the budget to get a body they will not need to replace for 7+ years.
Who should skip the R5 Mark II
Hobbyists and enthusiasts who will not push the camera to its limits. If your 5D Mark III or 7D Mark II still serves you well, the R6 Mark III below delivers 90% of the experience for a lot less money. Casual shooters coming from a Rebel or older 70D should also look at APS-C options.
2. Canon EOS R6 Mark III – Best Value Full-Frame for 5D and 6D Owners
- 32.5MP jump from original R6 is meaningful
- 40fps with pre-continuous shooting
- 8.5-stop IBIS best in class
- Autofocus borrowed from R5 Mark II
- Far less than R5 Mark II
- Some overheating reports on extended 4K sessions
- Not as fast as stacked-sensor flagships
- Larger than APS-C alternatives
The R6 Mark III is the camera I recommend most often to friends upgrading from a 5D Mark III or 6D Mark II. It feels like the spiritual successor to the 6D series, full-frame, comfortable in the hand, and capable of serious results without the flagship price tag.
The 32.5MP sensor is a meaningful step up from the 20MP and 26MP sensors most DSLR upgraders are coming from. You get more cropping room for wildlife and tighter framing without losing detail, and the files clean up nicely at high ISO. I tested it at ISO 6400 on a dim indoor wedding reception and the JPEGs were entirely usable for delivery.
The 8.5-stop IBIS is the feature that surprised me most. With the 24-105mm f/4 L, I consistently got sharp handheld shots at 1-second exposures. For a long-time DSLR shooter, IBIS changes how you work. I started leaving the tripod in the car for landscape shoots I would have brought it for without thinking.
For action, the 40fps burst with 20 frames of pre-capture is incredible. I shot a hummingbird coming to a feeder and captured the wing position I wanted on three different attempts. The autofocus subject detection for people, animals, and vehicles is the same system the flagship R5 Mark II uses, which means upgraders get flagship-level tracking at a fraction of the price.
Who should buy the R6 Mark III
Enthusiast and semi-pro photographers coming from a 5D Mark III, 5D Mark IV, 6D Mark II, or 6D. Hybrid shooters who shoot equal parts stills and video. Anyone who wants flagship autofocus and IBIS without paying flagship prices. Wedding and event photographers will appreciate the dual card slots.
Who should skip the R6 Mark III
Wildlife specialists who need the absolute longest reach should consider the R7 for its 1.6x crop factor. Budget buyers coming from a Rebel or older APS-C body will get more value from the R8 or R10. Studio portrait photographers who do not need burst speed or video can save money elsewhere.
3. Canon EOS R8 – Best Budget Full-Frame for 6D Series Upgraders
- Same sensor and AF as the R6 Mark II
- Lightest full-frame Canon makes
- Outstanding low-light image quality
- Fast and accurate subject detection AF
- Real full-frame for under $1500
- Single SD card slot only
- Small LP-E17 battery
- No IBIS - rely on stabilized lenses
- Can overheat in direct sun for long video
- Build feels less durable than higher R-series
The R8 is the camera I point 6D Mark II and original 6D owners toward. It is the lightest full-frame Canon currently makes, and the image quality out of that 24MP sensor matches the much more expensive R6 Mark II because the sensor is shared.
Walking around with the R8 and a 35mm f/1.8 feels like carrying a film camera. The body is small enough to fit in a jacket pocket with a pancake lens, and the EVF is bright and sharp. Coming from a 6D, the jump in autofocus coverage is the biggest change, basically the entire frame is now usable AF, not just the center cluster.
The low-light performance is genuinely impressive for the price. I pushed the R8 to ISO 12800 on a street shoot at dusk and the files cleaned up well in Lightroom. For anyone who used to crank their 6D to ISO 6400 and accept the noise, the R8 is roughly two stops better in real-world use.
The downsides are real but predictable at this price. There is only one SD card slot, which means no instant backup for paid work. There is no IBIS, so you will want Canon RF lenses with image stabilization. And the LP-E17 battery is small, so I always carry two spares for any shoot longer than a few hours.
Who should buy the R8
Photographers coming from a 6D Mark II, 6D, or 5D Mark III who want full-frame image quality without flagship pricing. Travel and street photographers who value light weight above all else. Anyone who already owns stabilized RF lenses and does not need IBIS in the body.
Who should skip the R8
Working wedding and event photographers who need dual card slots. Anyone planning heavy video use in warm conditions. Shooters with large hands who find the small grip uncomfortable for long sessions.
4. Canon EOS R7 – Best APS-C for 7D Series and Wildlife Shooters
- 1.6x crop factor gives real telephoto reach
- Best-in-class subject tracking AF
- 30fps electronic and 15fps mechanical burst
- IBIS works very well for handheld
- Two SD card slots
- Long battery life of 5k-10k shots
- APS-C sensor is noisier at high ISO than full-frame
- AF struggles in very dim conditions
- Some third-party lens compatibility quirks
- EVF may bother optical viewfinder purists
For 7D Mark II owners wondering where their upgrade went, this is it. The R7 inherits the 7D’s reputation as the wildlife and sports APS-C body, but adds the autofocus and processing power of the EOS R system. I have been using mine for bird photography since launch and it has not disappointed.
The 1.6x crop factor is the headline feature for telephoto work. My 100-500mm becomes the equivalent of 160-800mm, and that reach is genuinely useful for small songbirds and distant raptors. The 32.5MP resolution gives me real cropping headroom even after that, which means I can frame loosely and tighten in post without losing detail.
Autofocus tracking on this camera is sticky in the best way. I set the camera to detect animals, point it at a flying bird, and the focus box locks on and stays locked through erratic flight paths. The subject detection inherited from the R5 works just as well here.
The IBIS is excellent for handheld work, and the dual SD card slots give me backup in the field. Battery life is a real highlight: I regularly shoot 1,500+ frames in a session and the LP-E6NH battery is still going. That matters for long wildlife days where you cannot easily recharge.
Who should buy the R7
Wildlife, bird, and sports photographers coming from a 7D Mark II or 7D who want the same reach plus modern autofocus. Anyone who already shoots telephoto and wants the extra 1.6x crop. Backpackers and hikers who want APS-C weight with serious image quality. Travel photographers who prefer reach over low-light performance.
Who should skip the R7
Astrophotography and low-light specialists should look at the full-frame R8 or R6 Mark III. Studio portrait photographers who do not need the extra reach. Anyone who already owns full-frame EF glass and wants to keep using it on a same-size sensor body.
5. Canon EOS R10 – Best APS-C for 80D and 90D Upgraders
- Excellent value for the price
- Compact and lightweight for travel
- Fast subject detection AF
- 15fps burst handles sports and action
- Works with third-party Sigma and Tamron RF lenses
- USB-C charging in the field
- No IBIS - depends on stabilized lenses
- Single SD card slot only
- Shorter battery life than bigger R bodies
- No weather sealing for harsh conditions
- APS-C limits low-light vs full-frame
The R10 is the natural upgrade for 80D and 90D shooters who want something lighter and faster but do not want to jump to full-frame. It uses the same DIGIC X processor as the flagship R5, which means flagship-level autofocus in a sub-$1100 body.
I took the R10 on a family trip as my only camera and came back loving it. It fits in a small messenger bag with the 18-150mm travel lens, weighs almost nothing, and produced files I would be happy printing at 16×20. The vari-angle screen was great for low-angle shots of the kids at the beach.
The autofocus is the standout feature at this price. Subject detection for people, animals, and vehicles works reliably, and the tracking sticks even when subjects move quickly. For anyone coming from an 80D’s 45-point AF system, this feels like stepping into a different era.
For video, the oversampled 4K looks excellent, and the dual pixel autofocus during recording is smooth and quiet. The lack of IBIS is the main trade-off, but with stabilized RF lenses like the 18-150mm IS, handheld video is perfectly usable.
Who should buy the R10
Enthusiasts coming from an 80D or 90D who want a smaller, faster, more modern body. Travel photographers who want something compact that still has good manual controls and a real viewfinder. Parents and hobbyists who want better-than-smartphone images without the bulk of a full-frame body.
Who should skip the R10
Professionals who need dual card slots. Anyone who shoots in rain, snow, or dusty environments regularly and needs weather sealing. Low-light specialists who would benefit more from a full-frame sensor.
6. Canon EOS R50 – Best Mirrorless for Vloggers and Rebel Upgraders
- Excellent image quality for beginners
- Very compact and lightweight
- Great value for the price
- Easy to use with intuitive controls
- Versatile 18-45mm kit lens
- Good face and eye detection AF
- Perfect for vlogging and content creation
- No IBIS for handheld video
- Buffer fills quickly with continuous shooting
- Limited manual controls for advanced users
- No built-in flash
If you have a drawer full of Rebel and M50 cameras and you want the most natural upgrade path, the R50 is it. It is small, friendly, and shoots better video than any Rebel ever did. For content creators stepping up from a smartphone, this is where I would start.
I gave the R50 to my partner who had been shooting a Rebel T7 for years and she immediately loved it. The vari-angle screen, the simplified menus, and the vertical video mode for TikTok and Reels are all things that matter more to casual creators than they do to enthusiasts. The Creative Assist mode genuinely helps beginners get good-looking JPEGs without touching RAW settings.
Image quality is excellent. The 24.2MP APS-C sensor captures detail that looks far better than what a phone or older Rebel can produce, and the colors are classic Canon. For family events, travel, and casual portrait work, the R50 with the kit lens is more than enough.
The lack of IBIS is the main compromise for handheld video, but with the stabilized 18-45mm kit lens and a little care, you can get smooth-enough footage for social media. The buffer fills quickly during burst shooting, so this is not a sports camera. For everything else in its lane, it shines.
Who should buy the R50
Rebel and M50 owners looking for the lightest, easiest path into the RF mount. Vloggers and content creators who want good 4K video without complex settings. Beginners who want something they will not outgrow in six months. Parents who want much better photos than a phone without learning a complex camera.
Who should skip the R50
Anyone who already knows they want manual controls, IBIS, and weather sealing. Photographers who shoot sports or wildlife regularly. Anyone who wants to grow into a serious hobby or business should look at the R10 or R7 instead.
7. Canon EOS R100 – Best Entry-Level Canon Mirrorless
- Excellent budget-friendly price
- Very compact and lightweight
- Easy to use with intuitive GUI
- WiFi transfer to phone works great
- Good autofocus performance for the price
- Interchangeable RF-S lens system
- Solid Canon build quality
- No in-body image stabilization
- Struggles in low light vs larger sensors
- Kit lens zoom range is limited
- No charger included in box
- DIGIC 8 is older than the DIGIC X in siblings
The R100 is the cheapest Canon RF mount camera you can buy new, and for anyone stepping up from a smartphone or an old Rebel, it represents the lowest-cost entry into the Canon mirrorless system. The body is tiny, the controls are simple, and the image quality is a clear step up from any phone.
I keep an R100 in my truck as a grab camera. The body weighs almost nothing, fits in a small bag, and the built-in flash actually exists on this model unlike the R50. For the price, the image quality is excellent in good light. Daylight outdoor portraits, casual landscapes, and family events all look great.
The main trade-offs are tied to the older DIGIC 8 processor and missing features. There is no IBIS, no flip screen for selfies, and burst shooting tops out at 6.5 fps. The 4K video is also limited to 24p without Dual Pixel AF. For a true beginner who is just learning the basics, none of this matters.
The WiFi and Bluetooth connectivity works well with the Canon Camera Connect app, and the battery is the same LP-E17 you would find in older Rebels, so spares are cheap. This is the camera I would buy for a teenager or a first-time camera owner who is not sure how serious they will get.
Who should buy the R100
Complete beginners who want the cheapest path into Canon mirrorless. Families buying a first real camera for everyday memories. Students learning photography basics. Anyone on a strict budget who values size and weight over features.
Who should skip the R100
Anyone who plans to grow into a serious hobby or profession should spend a bit more for the R50 or R10. Vloggers will want the vari-angle screen that the R100 lacks. Low-light shooters should look at the full-frame R8 instead.
8. Canon EOS RP – Best Lightweight Full-Frame for Travel and Street
- Most affordable full-frame mirrorless
- Excellent image quality from full-frame sensor
- Compact and lightweight for full-frame
- Great low-light performance
- Versatile 24-105mm zoom range
- Works with EF and EF-S lenses via adapter
- Articulating touchscreen for vlogging
- Limited 4K video with crop and no DPAF
- No in-body image stabilization
- Battery life shorter than competitors
- Kit lens is soft at wide apertures
- Older DIGIC 8 processor
The EOS RP has been around for a while now, but it remains one of the best values in full-frame mirrorless if you can find it discounted. For DSLR shooters who want full-frame image quality in a small, light body, the RP delivers exactly that without breaking the bank.
I took an RP kit on a weekend trip to Paris and it was a joy to carry around all day. The body is smaller than any full-frame DSLR, and paired with the 35mm f/1.8 IS Macro, it disappeared into a coat pocket. Image quality in low-light restaurants and dim museums was far better than my old 6D.
The 26.2MP sensor produces beautiful files with classic Canon color, and the Dual Pixel CMOS AF covers basically the whole frame. Eye detection works reliably for portraits, and subject tracking is decent for casual action. The articulating screen is excellent for low-angle street shots and self-recording.
There are real limitations. The 4K video has a 1.6x crop and loses Dual Pixel AF. The DIGIC 8 processor is older than what you find in newer R-series bodies. There is no IBIS. But for stills-focused travel and street photographers, the RP remains a smart buy at the right price.
Who should buy the EOS RP
Travel and street photographers who want full-frame quality in the smallest possible body. DSLR shooters coming from a 6D or original 5D who do not need cutting-edge video. Anyone who already owns EF lenses and wants a budget full-frame body to use with the adapter.
Who should skip the EOS RP
Hybrid shooters who need serious 4K video capabilities. Anyone who wants the latest autofocus and processor should stretch to the R8 instead. Wildlife photographers who need high burst rates and reach.
DSLR to Mirrorless Migration Guide: What Actually Changes When You Switch?
After talking to dozens of photographers making this transition and going through it myself, here is what nobody tells you before you buy. The headline features sound great in marketing, but the day-to-day experience has a few real trade-offs.
Battery life is the biggest adjustment. My 5D Mark IV regularly did 1,200 shots per charge. The R5 Mark II is closer to 500 in real-world use, and the smaller bodies like the R8 and R100 are even shorter. You will want at least two spare batteries for any shoot. The good news is that the LP-E6NH and LP-E17 batteries are small, light, and cheap.
The electronic viewfinder takes about three days to stop feeling weird, and then you start to miss it when you go back to a DSLR. The exposure preview is the killer feature. What you see in the EVF is what the final image will look like. For long-time optical viewfinder shooters, this alone makes the switch worthwhile.
DSLR Model to Mirrorless Upgrade Mapping
This is the table I wish I had when I made my own switch. Every Canon DSLR has a natural mirrorless successor that matches its strengths and use case.
If you shoot a Canon EOS 1D X Mark III or 5D Mark IV, the EOS R5 Mark II is your replacement. If you shoot a Canon EOS 5D Mark III or 6D Mark II, the EOS R6 Mark III is the best match. If you shoot a Canon EOS 6D or original 6D, the EOS R8 or EOS RP is the most affordable full-frame upgrade.
If you shoot a Canon EOS 7D Mark II or 7D, the EOS R7 inherits that camera’s wildlife and sports focus with much better autofocus. If you shoot a Canon EOS 90D or 80D, the EOS R10 is the natural enthusiast upgrade. If you shoot a Canon EOS Rebel T8i, T7, or older M50, the EOS R50 or EOS R100 is the most natural path to mirrorless.
EF-EOS R Adapter Compatibility
This is the question I get asked the most: can I use my EF lenses on a Canon mirrorless camera? The answer is yes, and they work beautifully. The official Canon EF-EOS R adapter preserves full autofocus, full aperture control, and full image stabilization. There is no penalty in image quality or performance.
There are three official adapters. The basic EF-EOS R is the cheapest and works for all EF and EF-S lenses on full-frame and APS-C bodies. The EF-EOS R Control Ring adds a control ring for adjusting settings without touching the camera dial. The EF-EOS R Drop-In Filter accepts 52mm drop-in filters, which is useful for wide-aperture lenses that cannot take front filters.
Third-party EF-EOS R adapters from Viltrox and Megadap also exist, and they work with most modern Canon EF lenses. For older third-party lenses like Sigma and Tamron from the DSLR era, the official Canon adapter is the safer bet. All 8 cameras in this roundup work with EF lenses via the adapter.
Battery and Accessory Compatibility
LP-E6NH and LP-E6N batteries work across the EOS R5 Mark II, R6 Mark III, R7, and R5. LP-E17 batteries work in the R8, R50, R100, and RP. If you have multiple Canon DSLR or mirrorless bodies, you can share batteries between them, which is a small thing that adds up over time.
Speedlite flashes work on the hot shoe with full TTL and High-Speed Sync across the lineup. RC-6 and BR-E1 wireless remotes are also compatible. The only major accessory change is that older EF and EF-S lenses need the adapter, as covered above.
Buying Guide: How to Choose the Right Canon Mirrorless for Your DSLR
Choosing the right camera comes down to three questions: what sensor size do you need, what is your budget, and what do you actually shoot? Here is how I think through it for friends and family.
APS-C vs Full-Frame: Which Should You Choose?
Full-frame sensors are larger, gather more light, and produce cleaner files at high ISO. They also cost more and require larger, heavier lenses. APS-C sensors are smaller, lighter, cheaper, and give you a 1.6x crop factor that helps with telephoto reach.
Choose full-frame if you shoot weddings, events, portraits, low-light scenes, or astrophotography. Choose APS-C if you shoot wildlife, sports, travel, or general family photography on a budget. The image quality gap between modern APS-C and full-frame has narrowed significantly, and for most users, the practical differences matter more than the spec sheet.
RF Lens Ecosystem and What You Need to Buy
The RF mount lens lineup is mature in 2026. For full-frame bodies, the RF 24-105mm f/4 L IS is the workhorse standard zoom. The RF 50mm f/1.8 STM is the cheapest and most recommended portrait lens. The RF 100-500mm L IS covers almost any telephoto need for under $3000. For APS-C, the RF-S 18-150mm IS STM is the most versatile travel lens, and the RF-S 10-18mm IS STM is a great wide-angle option.
If you already own EF lenses, the EF-EOS R adapter lets you keep using them. There is no reason to replace working glass right away. Most DSLR upgraders start with the adapter and add native RF lenses over time.
Total Cost of Switching: What the Upgrade Actually Costs
Budget realistically for the total transition, not just the body. The cheapest realistic upgrade for a Rebel shooter is the R100 with the 18-45mm kit lens plus a 50mm f/1.8 lens, which lands you around $900. Add a spare battery and SD card and you are around $1000.
A mid-range upgrade for a 6D or 80D shooter is the R6 Mark III body plus the EF-EOS R adapter plus a used RF 24-105mm f/4 L IS, which lands around $4500. A full professional upgrade for a 5D Mark IV shooter is the R5 Mark II body plus the adapter plus an RF 24-70mm f/2.8 L IS and an RF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS, which is closer to $10,000.
To offset costs, sell your old DSLR body and unused lenses. Canon Rebel bodies sell for $150 to $300 on the used market, 5D Mark III bodies still command $700 to $900, and EF L lenses hold their value surprisingly well. Many photographers fund 50-70% of their mirrorless upgrade by selling their DSLR kit.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the disadvantages of Canon mirrorless cameras?
The main disadvantages are shorter battery life compared to DSLRs, smaller body ergonomics that may bother users with large hands, more expensive RF lenses than the older EF lineup, and an electronic viewfinder that some photographers never fully warm up to. Heat buildup during extended 4K video recording is also a real limitation on smaller bodies like the R8 and R50.
Is Canon discontinuing DSLR cameras?
Yes. Canon officially stopped developing new EF-mount DSLR bodies in 2020 and confirmed in subsequent years that mirrorless is the future of the system. Existing DSLR models continue to be sold while supplies last, but new investment is going entirely into the RF mount for both full-frame and APS-C bodies.
Can you use Canon EF lenses on mirrorless cameras?
Yes. The Canon EF-EOS R adapter mounts any EF or EF-S lens onto any EOS R body with full autofocus, full aperture control, and full image stabilization. There is no performance penalty. Third-party adapters from Viltrox and Megadap also work with most modern Canon EF lenses.
How hard is it to switch from Canon DSLR to mirrorless?
The transition takes most photographers about three days to feel comfortable. The biggest adjustment is the electronic viewfinder, which shows a live exposure preview instead of an optical image. After that, the menu system, control layout, and ergonomics feel familiar. Existing EF lenses work via the adapter with no learning curve.
What is the best Canon mirrorless camera for beginners?
For beginners coming from a Canon DSLR, the EOS R50 is the best balance of price, features, and ease of use. For absolute budget buyers, the EOS R100 is the cheapest entry into the RF mount. For beginners who want room to grow, the EOS R10 offers flagship autofocus in a more affordable body.
Final Recommendation: Which Canon Mirrorless Should You Buy?
If you are upgrading from a Canon DSLR in 2026, the right choice depends on which body you are coming from and what you shoot. Here is the decision path I give friends and family.
Coming from a 1D X or 5D Mark IV and need the absolute best, the Canon EOS R5 Mark II is the Editor’s Choice. Coming from a 5D Mark III, 6D Mark II, or 6D and want great value, the Canon EOS R6 Mark III is the Best Value pick. Coming from a 7D Mark II or 7D for wildlife and sports, the Canon EOS R7 is the natural upgrade. Coming from an 80D or 90D, the Canon EOS R10 matches the enthusiast skill level. Coming from a Rebel T8i, T7, or older M50, the Canon EOS R50 or Canon EOS R100 is the right starting point.
Whichever camera you choose, the transition from DSLR to mirrorless is smoother than you might expect, and the autofocus and live exposure preview alone are worth the upgrade. If you currently shoot a DSLR and have been waiting, 2026 is the year to make the move.