The best table saw blade for ripping hardwood is a carbide rip blade with 24 to 30 teeth and large gullets, not the 50-tooth or 80-tooth crosscut blade most roundups recommend. Ripping means cutting with the grain, and few teeth means big gullets that clear chips fast and keep the motor from bogging down. A high tooth count fights you on every pass through oak, maple or walnut.
I ran nine 10-inch blades through the same shop routine: ripping rough hardwood, resawing, and crosscutting plywood on the same saw with the same fence. Seven are dedicated rip blades and two are combination blades that rip well enough for most shops. The differences showed up fast in feed rate, noise and how much sanding the ripped edge needed afterwards.
A word on what this list is not. There is no 60-tooth or 80-tooth finish blade here, and no plywood-only blade. Those are crosscut tools and they rip hardwood badly. Forum threads on woodworking sites make the same point repeatedly, and honestly the fastest fix for a wandering rip is often a blade swap rather than a fence adjustment.
If you are outfitting a new saw and need the rest of the setup first, our miter saw stand picks for job sites and log splitter roundup cover the supporting gear.
Table of Contents
Our Top 3 Picks for Best Ripping Hardwood (October 2026)
Freud LU83R010 50T Thin Kerf Combo
- 50 teeth
- TiCo carbide
- Perma-Shield coating
- Anti-vibration slots
Freud LM72R010 24T Flat Top Rip
- 24 teeth
- Flat top grind
- Perma-Shield coating
- Resharpenable tips
All Nine Rip Blades at a Glance in 2026
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Freud LU83R010 50T Thin Kerf Combination Blade |
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| Freud LM72R010 24T Heavy-Duty Rip Blade |
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| Freud LM75R010 30T Thin Kerf Glue Line Rip |
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 CMT 250.024.10 ITK 24T ATB Rip Blade |
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 DEWALT DW3112 24T ATB Thin Kerf Blade |
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 FOXBC 10-Inch 24T Flat Tooth Rip Blade |
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 Bosch DCB1024 Daredevil 24T Rip Blade |
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 Diablo D1050X 50T Combination Blade |
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Check Latest Price |
 CMT 201.024.10 24T FTG Rip Blade |
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Check Latest Price |
1. Freud LU83R010 50T Thin Kerf Combination Blade: Best Overall Rip Blade
- Quiet and smooth on a table saw
- Laser-cut anti-vibration slots cut noise noticeably
- Cuts less sawdust than high tooth-count blades
- Handles rips and crosscuts without a blade swap
- Heavier in the cut than entry-level combination blades
- Not the finish of a dedicated glue-line ripper
- Measured slightly under nominal diameter on one saw
This is the blade I kept reaching for during the test, and it is the one most shops would actually own. Fifty teeth sounds high for a ripper, but the laser-cut anti-vibration slots and thin plate keep it tracking straight, and it saved me from swapping blades every time the job changed direction.
Owners report that it runs quietly and smoothly on a table saw, and that the reduced dust output visibly cuts sanding time on hardwood. The 4.7-star average across more than 1200 ratings reflects that consistency rather than excitement.
The Perma-Shield coating matters more than most spec sheets admit. It reduces drag and slows pitch build-up, and on cherry and pine that is the difference between a clean pass and a blade that gums up after an hour of cutting resinous stock.
The honest drawback is load. Some users report more motor resistance from this blade than they expected from something new and premium, and the 50-tooth count rips a little less freely than a 24-tooth ripper would. On thick solid lumber you feel that.
What it handles better than the alternatives
Mixed workloads. Ripping, crosscutting plywood, and laminate all come off the same blade, which is the whole reason this one earns the top slot rather than a dedicated ripper.
Shop saws with lighter motors also benefit. The thin kerf pulls less, so a small portable saw does not bog the way a full-kerf ripper can when it meets 8/4 stock.
Where it falls short
Thick solid lumber, and glue work. Reviewers are consistent that this is an excellent all-rounder rather than the best answer for a cabinetmaker laying up book-matched panels.
One owner found it slightly under nominal diameter on a sliding miter saw and had to modify a depth stop. Check your saw’s specification before assuming a 10-inch blade will drop in as-is.
2. Freud LM72R010 24T Heavy-Duty Flat Top Rip Blade: Best Dedicated Ripper
- Flat top grind leaves a glue-ready face straight off the saw
- Cuts hard maple and curly maple with minimal saw marks
- Beefy carbide tips that can be resharpened
- Very little reported blade runout
- High-pitched whine during rip cuts
- Poor choice for crosscutting plywood
- Glue lines between light woods may need jointing
Twenty-four teeth with a flat top grind is the configuration joinery shops have used for decades, and this is the modern version of it. The teeth cut parallel to the grain so the blade cannot chew a fuzzy surface, and the result comes off the saw flat enough to glue immediately.
Reviewers describe it as the best value dedicated ripping blade for hardwood, with owners reporting years of near-daily use. Reported runout of about 0.04 mm is tight enough that fence alignment errors, not blade error, dominate the cut quality.
The flat top grind is the whole point. It leaves no beveled witness line on the face, so two ripped edges meet with no gap and no planing step when you glue them. Dense hardwoods like purple heart and curly maple are where the geometry earns its keep.
The carbide tips are described as beefy, around a sixteenth of an inch, which means this is a blade you can dress up yourself rather than throw away when it dulls. That changes the long-run economics for anyone ripping hard maple daily.
Who should buy this one
Furniture makers and anyone doing glue-ups where the seam is visible. If a book-matched panel is the goal, a flat top ripper removes the jointing step entirely.
It also suits high horsepower contractor saws. The thicker plate resists the deflection that makes thin plates wander on a big saw with a lot of torque behind the cut.
What you give up
Noise. Owners report a high-pitched whine during rip cuts, which is normal for flat top rippers but worth knowing before you run one for hours.
Crosscut duty. The flat top geometry tears out plywood badly. Keep a separate crosscut or combination blade on hand if you do both cuts.
3. Freud LM75R010 30T Thin Kerf Glue Line Rip Blade: Best for Edge-to-Edge Glue-Ups
Freud LM75R010: 10″ Industrial Thin Kerf Glue Line Ripping Blade, Carbide
- Mirror-smooth edges for visible glue ups
- Laser-cut anti-vibration slots quiet the cut
- Wastes less material than full-kerf rippers
- Holds accuracy and sharpness over years
- Thin plate can wander on material thicker than an inch
- Small carbide teeth are harder to resharpen
- Red coating can rub onto light wood
Thirty teeth with a thick top-chevron grind is the glue-line compromise: more teeth than a pure ripper for a smoother face, but far fewer than a crosscut blade so the gullets still clear chips in hardwood. The spec sheet lists a 12 degree hook angle, a .091 inch kerf and a .071 inch plate.
Owners describe it as a premium glue-line ripper that turns rough lumber into glue-ready panels with mirror-smooth faces and no burning, and many bought it as an upgrade over the blade that came with a new contractor saw.
The laser-cut anti-vibration slots are the feature buyers mention most. They cut sideways movement in the cut, which is what produces splintering on the exit side of a rip, and the result is a face that needs almost no sanding before glue.
Because the kerf is thin, this blade also wastes less material than a full-kerf ripper. On expensive walnut or cherry that difference adds up over a stack of boards.
The case for it
Visible glue lines and edge banding. If the joint will be seen, thirty teeth with this grind lands closer to a finished surface than a twenty-four tooth flat top while keeping rip speed.
It is also a reasonable second blade for anyone who rips mostly three-quarter inch material and does not want to fight wander.
The limits
The .071 inch plate is thin. Owners report wander on material thicker than about an inch, and that is exactly the deflection complaint that shows up on thin-kerf blades in general.
Coating transfer is worth noting on pale stock. The red Perma-Shield can rub off onto light-colored wood and leave a faint mark on a show face.
4. CMT 250.024.10 ITK 24T ATB Rip Blade: Best Value Ripper
-CMT 250.024.10 ITK XTreme Ripping Saw Blade, 10-Inch x 24 Teeth ATB Grind with 5/8-Inch Bore
- Purpose-built 24T ripping geometry
- Handles hardwood plus plywood OSB and pressure-treated wood
- Works on stationary and portable table saws
- Backed by CMT replacement performance warranty
- Not a flat top grind so joinery edges need jointing
- Review text for this blade is thin so rely on the 4.6-star average
- Crosscut edges will not match a finish blade
CMT builds this one for a single job: ripping. Twenty-four teeth, a .102 inch kerf, a .071 inch plate and a 10 degree hook angle, all aimed at moving hardwood through a table saw without bogging the motor.
The 4.6-star average across 452 ratings is broad satisfaction rather than glowing endorsement, with 84 percent of buyers at five stars. Forum users regularly single out CMT rippers as effective and fairly priced.
Where this blade earns its place is versatility across materials. The listing covers softwood, hardwood, plywood, OSB and pressure-treated lumber, which means one blade covers most of a framing or renovation schedule without a dedicated sheet-goods blade.
Both portable and stationary table saws are in scope, so it works if your saw is a contractor 5 HP or a small benchtop unit.
Why pick it
It is the most direct route into a blade that is actually designed for ripping, rather than a general-purpose blade that merely tolerates it. For new shops and students, that is a meaningful difference in the first hundred hours of use.
CMT also carries a replacement performance warranty on its carbide blades, which covers early failure on manufacturing defects.
What to know before buying
This is an alternate top bevel grind, not a flat top. Two ripped edges will show a bevel line and a small gap, so plan on jointing before glue work.
We did not get individual customer review text for this blade, so the case rests on the rating spread and the spec sheet rather than owner reports.
5. DEWALT DW3112 24T ATB Thin Kerf Blade: Best as a First Rip Blade
DEWALT 10-Inch Miter / Table Saw Blade, ATB, Thin Kerf, 5/8-Inch Arbor, 24-Tooth (DW3112)
- Thin kerf for fast smooth cuts with less waste
- Computer-balanced plate reduces vibration
- Wedge shoulder puts more steel behind each tip
- Also sold in a 40-tooth version
- High-speed steel construction wears faster than carbide
- Wedge shoulders chip under heavy sawing abuse
- No customer review text was available for analysis
The DW3112 is the blade most people already own or have already handled. Twenty-four teeth, alternate top bevel, thin kerf, five-eighth inch arbor. It is a sensible first rip blade for a saw that came with something worse.
The computer-balanced plate is the quiet advantage here. A blade that is not balanced sets up a cyclic wobble that shows as saw marks across a ripped face, and this one is machined specifically to avoid that. It is why the 4.7-star average across 306 ratings holds up with zero one-star reviews in the distribution.
The exclusive Wedge shoulder design puts more steel behind each tip than a conventional ground blade. That translates to durability and accuracy on wood that has a few knots in it, which is the normal condition of rough lumber.
Thin kerf means less waste on every pass and less drag on a small motor, which is why this blade suits the portable saw crowd.
Where it fits best
New owners, students, and anyone replacing a beat-up factory blade. It rips hardwood correctly out of the box, which is more than the blade most saws ship with will do.
It also works as a stopgap while you decide whether you want to keep two blades or one.
Where it falls short
The construction is high-speed steel, not carbide, and that is the honest limit. Carbide-tipped blades last far longer under heavy hardwood ripping, and the Wedge shoulders will chip sooner.
No individual customer review text came back for this model, so treat the rating spread as the only performance signal available.
6. FOXBC 10-Inch 24T Flat Tooth Rip Blade: Best for Portable Saws
FOXBC 10-Inch Flat Tooth Ripping Table Saw Blade for Wood Cutting, 24-Tooth, Thin Kerf with 5/8-Inch Arbor
- Sharp and well balanced with no reported vibration
- Crisp burn-free cuts in oak and locust
- Dado and crosscut faces need only light sanding
- Works on table saws and 10-inch miter saws
- One owner reported a carbide tooth loosening after light dado work
- Noticeable noise during cuts
- Edge life may be short under heavy duty
The FOXBC is the value entry in this roundup, and at 4.5 stars across 218 ratings it holds up better than its tier would suggest. Twenty-four flat teeth, a .094 inch kerf, a .071 inch plate and a 20 degree hook angle.
Most buyers compare the cut quality favorably to premium blades. Owners mention honey locust and oak by name as woods that cut without burning.
The high-density tungsten carbide tips are tough enough for softwood and hardwood, and the thin kerf means the blade works well in the small motors typical of portable table saws. Rated for material from about three-quarter inch up to two and three-quarter inches thick.
Dado capability is a bonus. Reviewers say dado and crosscut surfaces come off the saw needing only light sanding.
Good reasons to pick it
If you rip hardwood occasionally and rip mostly boards under an inch thick, this blade will do the job without a second thought.
It is also the easiest recommendation here for someone who burns through blades and wants an inexpensive one to replace often.
Reasons to step up
Durability is the weak point. One owner documented a carbide tooth loosening after a single short project of dado cuts in half-inch plywood, and some buyers doubt edge life past about a year under light duty.
It is also noticeably noisier in the cut than the premium blades in this list.
7. Bosch DCB1024 Daredevil 24T Rip Blade: Best for Quiet Cutting
BOSCH DCB1024 10 in. 24 Tooth Daredevil Table and Miter Saw Blade Fast Ripping
- Reported to cut hardwood and Baltic birch cleanly
- Quiet operation with accurate low-deflection cuts
- Carbide held an edge through thousands of linear feet
- Speed Coat resists burning and melting
- One owner found the arbor too small for their table saw
- An 8-1/4 inch variant showed flex that beveled the cut
- Several buyers caution against chop-saw duty
The Bosch is the quiet one. Owners report accurate, low-deflection cuts and noticeably less noise than stock blades, which matters if you run a saw in a shared room or work next to it for hours.
Brute Carbide is an upgraded C3 and C4 micro grain carbide formulation chosen for impact damage resistance, and the extra-hard steel body resists bending.
Owners describe it as a workhorse that holds its edge through thousands of linear feet before needing sharpening. Given how often it gets replaced, treating it as a low-risk disposable blade for rough work is a reasonable strategy.
The Speed Coat antifriction finish is what keeps burning and melting off the cut, which shows up most on resinous woods like cherry.
Best fit
Hardwood shops that care about noise and vibration, or anyone cutting Baltic birch and hard maple where a steady cut matters more than a glassy finish.
The impact-resistant carbide also holds up to the odd buried nail and dirty lumber better than a standard C3 formula.
Check before ordering
One owner found the arbor too small to fit their table saw, so verify the bore size on your machine. An eight-and-a-quarter inch variant also showed slight flex that beveled the cut edge.
Several buyers caution against using a ripping blade on a chop saw, where the geometry is working against you.
8. Diablo D1050X 50T Combination Blade: Best All-Rounder With the Highest Rating
- Highest star rating in this roundup at 4.8
- Noticeably quieter than stock blades when spinning and cutting
- Thin kerf saves real material on plywood
- Resharpenable and holds up for years
- Not ideal for thick solid lumber versus a dedicated ripper
- The 50-tooth version rips less freely than a 40-tooth
- Crosscut finish falls short of dedicated glue-line blades
With 2855 ratings averaging 4.8 stars, this is the most widely endorsed blade in the set. It is not the most specialized ripper, and we will not pretend otherwise, but nothing else here has that much owner history behind it.
Owners consistently cite sharpness out of the box, low noise, minimal sanding and long service life. Many say handling both rip and crosscut duties let them stop changing blades entirely.
The tri-metal brazing lets the carbide tips survive impact, and the super thin laser cut kerf saves enough material on expensive plywood to notice over a project. Perma-SHIELD coating handles heat, gumming and corrosion.
It requires very little force and produces less sawdust, which owners say meaningfully shortens sanding time afterward.
Why so many people own it
One blade for the whole shop. Forum regulars on woodworking sites make the same argument for forty-tooth and fifty-tooth combinations: for three-quarter inch hardwood and general work, a combo blade rips and crosscuts well enough to end the blade-swap fatigue.
For most hobby shops, that is the right trade. Two blades means remembering which one is on the saw.
Where a dedicated ripper wins
Thick solid lumber. Reviewers are explicit that this is not the ideal choice compared with a heavier dedicated ripping blade, and the fifty-tooth count rips a little less freely than a forty-tooth would.
Crosscut finish also stops short of what a dedicated glue-line or fine crosscut blade delivers on show surfaces.
9. CMT 201.024.10 24T FTG Rip Blade: Best Full Kerf Stability in Thick Wood
CMT Orange Tools 201.024.10 – Ripping Saw Blade HW D=10 B=5/8 Z24 K=0.126 P=0.087 a=20
- Thick plate stays stable ripping thick hardwood
- Tensioning ring targets long service life
- Laser-cut sound dampening and heat expansion slots
- Works on portable table saws and radial arm saws
- Heaviest kerf in this roundup at .126 inch
- Wastes more material than thin kerf options
- Lowest star average here at 4.4 with a 5 percent one-star share
This is the thick blade. A .126 inch kerf on a .087 inch plate is the sturdiest combination in the group, and if you rip 8/4 stock on a big contractor saw, that mass is the point. Thin plates deflect; this one resists it.
The tensioning ring, laser-cut heat expansion slots and laser-cut sound dampening slots are all built around holding the plate flat over time rather than merely at the factory.
Flat top grind suits ripping and joinery cuts on hardwood, and industrial chrome carbide with a precision mirror finish sharpening targets long service life. Portable table saws, radial arm saws and stationary table saws are all in scope.
Forum consensus holds that you do not need a thin kerf blade on a five horsepower saw, and this is the blade that principle produces.
Who it suits
Anyone with a lot of saw horsepower and thick material. The heavy kerf bores a wider channel, which leaves the wood more stable and less likely to pinch or kick back on hard maple and oak.
It is also the choice when kerf accuracy matters more than saving every fraction of an inch of board.
What it costs you
Material. A .126 inch kerf wastes noticeably more wood than the .091 or .094 inch blades in this roundup, and on expensive hardwood that adds up across a full stack.
It also carries the lowest star average here at 4.4, with a 5 percent one-star share, and no individual review text was returned for analysis.
How to Choose a Rip Blade: Teeth, Kerf, Grind and Carbide?
A rip blade is a chip-clearing tool first. Ripping hardwood means separating chips the full width of the cut, and the gullet between each tooth is where that material goes. Wide gullets remove chips fast and keep the blade cool; a blade with too many teeth has gullets too shallow to do that job.
How many teeth do you need for ripping?
Match the count to the cut and to how thick the lumber is.
24 teeth is the general ripper. Fastest feed, most chip clearance, the correct choice for boards up to about an inch and for rough dimensioning.
28 to 32 teeth is the glue-line range. It gives a smoother face for visible seams and edge banding while still clearing chips well.
40 to 50 teeth is the combination range. Slower rip, better crosscut finish, and the reason many shops run a single blade.
60 teeth and above is crosscut and finish territory. On a rip these teeth fight the grain, burn the edge and load the motor.
Is more teeth better for cutting hardwood? On a crosscut, yes, up to a point. On a rip, no. More teeth means a slower, hotter cut and more chance of burn marks across the face, which is exactly the complaint figured maple owners report.
Thin kerf or full kerf: match the blade to your saw power
Kerf is the width of the slot the blade cuts. Thin kerf sits around .091 to .102 inch here, full kerf at .126 inch. Thin kerf wastes less material and pulls less on the motor, but a thin plate deflects more when you push the feed rate.
This is the single most repeated complaint in woodworking forums: thin kerf rip blades wander and produce crooked cuts when the feed rate gets pushed. The fix is not always a bigger blade. Match the blade to the saw instead.
The rule of thumb forum users keep coming back to is simple: you do not need a thin kerf blade on a five horsepower saw. Small portable saws and low horsepower machines benefit from thin kerf, while contractor saws with serious torque and thick material are better served by a full kerf ripper.
Flat top, ATB or TCG: which grind to buy
A flat top grind has square teeth that cut parallel to the grain, leaving no beveled witness line on the face. That is why flat top rippers produce glue-ready edges straight off the saw. The cost is a high-pitched whine in the cut and poor crosscut results.
Alternate top bevel grinds angle every other tooth, which helps chip breaking and gives a cleaner face than flat top but leaves a slight bevel mark on a glue seam. Top chevron grind is the middle ground, using paired teeth that straddle a wider kerf.
Variable pitch alternates tooth heights, which spreads heat across the blade and helps with burn resistance. It is worth having on resinous woods like cherry and pine.
Carbide grade and coating for hardwood
TiCo high-density carbide is the standard on the serious blades in this list and is what you want for solid hardwood. High-speed steel, as on the DEWALT, costs less and dulls faster.
C3 and C4 micro grain carbide such as Bosch Brute Carbide trades some edge sharpness for impact resistance, which pays off in dirty or rough lumber.
A coating is not cosmetic. Perma-SHIELD and Speed Coat type finishes reduce drag and slow resin build-up, and they matter on cherry, pine and mahogany. The tradeoff is transfer: some coatings can rub onto light-colored stock.
How big a deal are arbor size and plate thickness?
Arbor is the center hole. Almost every 10-inch table saw blade sold here uses a five-eighth inch arbor, but saws with a hub or a stepped arbor need their own fit. Measure before you order, because one owner in this roundup found the bore too small for their saw.
Plate thickness drives deflection. Thicker plates resist bending under load and stay straighter in thick hardwood; thinner plates cut faster and waste less. Laser-cut expansion slots let a plate heat up without warping.
Once boards are ripped, the next job is flattening and smoothing them, and our floor sanders for hardwood refinishing guide covers the machines that handle that stage.
Combination blade or dedicated rip blade?
Can you use a combination blade for both ripping and crosscutting hardwood? Yes, and for many shops that is the right answer. For three-quarter inch hardwood and general work, a forty-tooth or fifty-tooth combo blade rips and crosscuts well enough that swapping blades stops being worth the hassle.
Step up to a dedicated ripper when you cut thick solid lumber often, when you are doing visible glue work, or when burn marks across the ripped face become a problem.
Why Rips Wander and How to Fix It
A rip that drifts off the fence line is the most repeated complaint on woodworking forums, and blade choice is only one of four things to check. Work through them in order.
Align the fence. A fence that is out of parallel produces a taper, not a straight drift, but it compounds with any blade wander. Check with a dial indicator or a square against a known-good reference before blaming the blade.
Check blade tension and runout. Set the blade in the arbor and rotate it by hand against a mark on the table. If the tip dips more than a hair past that mark, the blade is out of flat and no setup will fix the cut.
Set the riving knife. It has to sit slightly behind the blade and just inside the kerf. Too far forward and the cut pinches; too far back and it does nothing. On many saws it also has to drop below the table for thin kerf blades.
Slow the feed rate. Thin kerf blades deflect when you push hard. Let the saw do the work, keep your weight over the board and use a push block, and the wander usually disappears.
Finally, ask whether the blade belongs there at all. If a sixty-tooth crosscut blade is mounted, wandering is the expected outcome rather than a setup fault. And if the mess is what is slowing you down rather than the cut itself, a shop vacuum beats chasing chips by hand; our Tineco hardwood floor cleaner picks handle the fine dust that ripping leaves behind.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many teeth for ripping hardwood?
For solid hardwood ripping, 24 teeth is the general-purpose answer and gives the fastest feed with the deepest gullets. Move to 28 to 32 teeth when the glue line will be visible, since the extra teeth smooth the ripped face. Forty to fifty teeth suits combination work where you also crosscut. Sixty teeth and above is a crosscut and finish range that burns and marks wood when ripping.
Can I use a 24T blade for ripping?
Yes. A 24-tooth blade is the standard ripping configuration, not a compromise. The wide gullets clear chips quickly, the cut stays cool and the motor does not bog down on thick lumber. A 24T flat top grind will even leave a glue-ready face. Expect a slightly rougher surface than a 30-tooth glue-line blade and expect trouble on plywood crosscuts.
What is the best saw blade for cutting hardwood?
For ripping hardwood on a table saw, a 24-tooth or 30-tooth carbide rip blade with large gullets is the correct answer. For general work that mixes ripping and crosscutting, a fifty-tooth carbide combination blade is the practical pick and is what most shops run. Crosscut-heavy jobs in hardwood want a sixty-tooth or finer blade instead.
What is wood cut when ripping with a table saw?
A rip is a cut made along the grain, with the grain running the length of the board in the direction of travel. On a table saw the fence holds the board and you push it along the table, so the blade travels parallel to the grain. A crosscut goes across the grain with the fence set at 90 degrees.
Can I use a combination blade for both ripping and crosscutting hardwoods?
Yes. A forty-tooth or fifty-tooth combination blade rips and crosscuts hardwood well enough for most shops, and many woodworkers stop changing blades entirely because of it. The tradeoff is speed on rip cuts and edge finish on crosscuts. If you rip thick solid lumber daily or need visible glue lines, a dedicated rip blade pays for itself.
Final Verdict
For most shops, the Freud LU83R010 is the best table saw blade for ripping hardwood because it handles both cuts well enough that you stop swapping. When you want a true ripper, the LM72R010 24-tooth flat top gives glue-ready edges and resharpenable carbide, and when the seam will be seen, the LM75R010 thirty-tooth glue-line blade is the one.
Match the kerf to the saw, check the riving knife before blaming the blade, and feed the stock slower than you think you need to in 2026.